Gram weight of my 6 and 7 iron heads are too close in weight with the 6 iron is too heavy and the 7 iron is too light? We are talking 2.5 grams +/- on each one. The rest of set looks great. How do I get them to match up to rest of set?

Posted new comment

what brand/model of heads Larry, and can you list the weights for each head in the set

2020/21 Taylormade P790
**Now my wife has a Masters in Math so she looked at it and after some calculating she told me that the average gapping should be 6.6 +/- grams per head. She said that based on that number the 6 iron should be 255.4 and 7 iron should be 262.0. Now if that is true that the 6 iron is 2.3+ and the 7 iron is 1.8-.
Does that sound probable?

Thank you….

I found the following:
allowing +/- 3 grams, they are all in spec. However, I’ve normally seen 7 gram separations in the longer irons, changing to 8 grams in the shorter irons (8-PW)
An educated guess is that these should be 7 grams of separation starting with your 5 Iron head at 249 grams.
to subtract weight, you could use a 1/4″ drill bit and drill out a bit at the bottom of the hosel. To add weight, you can use a variety of tungsten powder, tip weights, or lead tape.
In reality you are only seeing a “big” variation in the 7 iron. So I would add a 3 gram tip weight to the 7 iron during the build or 3 grams of lead tape afterwards.
Note that Golfworks lists the 6 iron at 264 grams (
Regardless, your numbers are pretty close to what I found, so i would work off of those. If your doing conventional swingweighting, this will put you within 1.5 grams of what the headweights should be. Close enough. If you’re doing MOI matching, that’s a whole different discussion.
good luck on the build.

Riafoone & Britt…Thank you so much for some great information!
Now I add an additional problem as I like the results I am getting with the KBS MAX graphite 75 shaft with the parallel tip(.370). Now I have to bore the tip of the heads, but it gives me flexibility on soft or hard tipping each club. This may get my sw at D/0 or C9 which is ok….Do you foresee any issues I may not know of with this process? I am also going to have shafts PURE’d and frequency matched. I am from the old days of lead tape so I am not opposed to using it vs possible shifting of COG if I fill the hosels with powder, etc. Also I went to Maltby’s site and also saw the 264 gram/6 iron…that seems to be a huge difference to what I have received! Any additional thoughts? Thank you both in advance!

not being real familiar with these heads, I would recommend using a quality reamer (not a drill bit). I’ve been happy with the ones I’ve purchased from Golfworks. Do it by hand unless you have a drill press that will run real slow (400 rpm) with some cutting oil. High speed will harden the steel and it will be a real pain after that.
If you have not done this type of work (it’s pretty extensive), I would recommend using a good club builder in your area and see if you can be part of the process (or send the whole batch to Golfworks). I do this with some of my customers and they come away having a better understanding of their equipment and they enjoy the free beer;-)