You can adjust the tip trimming to achieve a particular frequency, but you have to be careful not to trim too much. You need to know how much parallel tip section length you have and be aware of the total length of the shaft. Obviously we are talking about .370 parallel tip only as you can not tip trim any from a .355 taper tip design.
Britt Lindsey
They both are forged, the TS1 and the TS2. I apologize in advance for piling on the accolades, and the fact that whatever I will say will be totally biased, but the TS2 are amazing. Took a new build set out last week when we had visitors in town (KBS) shafted with KBS Tour shafts. Was only going to hit a few on the range and let our guests hit them, but after our warm up, I put them in the cart. Long story short, they performed for me as if they had been my gamer for years. I knew they would be a little longer than my MMB’s and DBM’s and they were, at least 1/2 a club. Can’t wait to get out later this week to see how they are on the course I usually play. The comments from our guests were “sounds so solid” and I have to say the sound and feel was as good as I have played, and I have played and hit A LOT of irons. Ready to shaft up the TS1 blades and do a real comparison. Pete as a set of the blades he is playing and he loves them. Thanks to those of you that have posted the positive comments. I do believe the TS1 and TS2 two are good iron designs that should appeal to a wide range of players.
Britt Lindsey
The choices are a little slim at that weight, but I think the Recoil 65 Iron would be a reasonable replacement. Similar weight and torque and does come in a .355 taper tip.
Britt Lindsey
Woody, that’s such a tough and expensive loss. Could happen to anybody! (Be glad you didn’t do that to a customer’s shafts!)
Here is some information that may be of interest to some readers of the forum:
– generally for each 1/2” of tip trimmed that is either more or less than what is recommended, it affects the shaft by 1/4 flex.
– you cannot tip trim taper tip shafts (.355).
– IR1 trim code means no tip trimming. This will always be the code for taper tip shafts, but there are some parallel shafts with that same code, so there would be no tip trimming on those either.
– each shaft has a trim code. Find it, then follow the tip trimming chart. Here’s the link:
https://www.golfworks.com/images/art/shaft_trim_inst.pdf
Michael
Popeye, I think you mean that you’re waiting for the non-cavity back Forged TS-1 since the TS-2 is forged.
A high ballooning trajectory is usually a sign of either an early release (which can still be a solid shot) or a shaft that is too soft for the swing speed. Both increase the dynamic loft, that is, the loft at impact. I recommend that you first establish if it’s the former, and if so, consider a stiffer flex. The Kuro Kage has a high bend point and stiffer tip section which, except for the factors already mentioned, won’t produce balloon balls. Hope this helps! Michael
Does look like a great iron. I believe the TS-2 is already listed as a forged club.
I’m really not sure what kind of flex you would be left with. I’m willing to bet that the flexes throughout the set would be all over the place with out consistency. The butt end will have the least amount of effect on the shaft when you add the extensions. If it was me I would go through the work of adding the extensions and doing the proper tip trimming and then trim to playing length at the butt end.
Christhomas. Very easy. Just use your normal epoxy. First I put epoxy on the shaft tip, and swirl some epoxy around the inside of the hosel. Just as you would for a standard reshaft. Then place the shim over the tip of the shaft. Insert shaft into hosel and wipe away excess epoxy if any. Problem free. Many have used a number of things as shims. Centering beads, sugar, very fine sand. But the shims you have are made for exactly what you want to do. Don’t over think this one. Very easy.