Two questions actually.
Shaft broke approximately 8″s above the adaptor.
2. – Do sell shafts with Opti-fit already installed?
Thank you.
I use the above tools also. I have better luck with a butane torch similar to item LPT500. These can be found at most home improvement stores. The problem I have with the heat gun is it discolors the adapter. 10-15 seconds with the butane torch on 3 sides of the adapter and it comes right off and doesn’t jazz up color. Also a good chance you “might” save the ferrule.
I saw this on youtube the other day. Probably the best I’ve seen: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8j5QDDGDjQ
After viewing this video, it will give you an idea if you’re ready to tackle something like this.
You can remove a broken shaft from an adaptor tools and experience. You would need a graphite shaft extractor (GW1009 or MA2007), and OEM adaptor saver kit (GW0130) and a heat gun. The biggest challenge is in saving the ferrule that is on the adaptor. It is plastic and susceptible to heat. We do sell replacements for those if it does get damaged in the removal process (BB9096 is the ferrul code). We do sell the adaptors and yes, we can install adaptors on shafts. cost is the price of he shaft, the price of the adaptor and $10.00 for installation. The Opti Fit adaptors can be found on our website here:
https://www.golfworks.com/oem-adaptors/c/10027/filter/100000000112eq100000000113/
Hope this helps.
Britt Lindsey
Wanted to add to the discussion. The video is good and Jim is a highly skilled club fitter and builder. Using the torch will work most of the time, but you have to be careful doing it like Jim showed in the video if you are trying to save the graphite shaft. I have seen less time with a torch than he used ruin a graphite shaft. In all fairness, it kind of depends on the shaft. Heat guns do take longer and takes patience, but heat slower and can reduce the risk of damaging the graphite. If your not trying to save the graphite shaft, then use the torch. If you are and want to use the torch, heat in short increments, like he described, but maybe even shorter (5-10 seconds). Heat gun could take 30+ second intervals. What I like about our pre-loaded shaft puller is that you can put the shaft in the puller, using the adaptor removal tool he described in the video. You can apply some load before heating. This creates a condition so that when you do apply heat, either with a torch or a a heat gun, the second the bond is broken, the adaptor breaks loose, limiting the amount of time there is heat the graphite shaft. That is the key, to limit the amount of time the graphite is exposed to heat. Also, Jim described in the video that you have to drill out the epoxy from the tip of the shaft once you remove the adaptor. He is correct and there is a great tool for that that helps prevent damaging the inside of the graphite shaft. It is the Self Centering Shaft Ti Cleaner (GW1110).
Britt Lindsey