I have Taylormade P790 heads and TrueTemper S200 steel shafts. I previously had the shafts installed in PSi heads without any issues. Now, the epoxy routinely loosens and the head moves on the shaft. I’ve tried 3 different kinds of epoxy; the latest is GolfWorks EXP1.
Any suggestions on how to stop this phenomenon.
If the fit is to loose you’ll need to do something with it. If the set was picked up used, don’t discount the idea that someone could’ve reamed or drilled the hosels. If you don’t need a shim, I really like the quick center that golfworks offers.
as far as your prep work goes, are you using acetone at all? I’ll only use acetone when I’ve got a new head and I’m getting the oil out of the inside of the hosel. That’s the first thing I’ll do. Then I’ll prep the hosel with a sanding mandrel. I never use the acetone after the sanding. My theory is their could be residue left behind from the acetone which could inhibit a proper bond with the epoxy.
Agreed it is not an epoxy problem if what your using is mixed properly. Something in the fit, the prep and/or the cleanliness of the two surfaces is my bet for what’s causing the problem. No matter what epoxy you use, the hosel has to be clean and the shaft tip should be as well. We formulate our epoxies and use them every day in our own club assembly. I have not tested the DP 420 NS, nor had it tested, so I can’t comment on it’s effectiveness for this application. I am sure it would work as well and if 3M says club manufacturers use it, I will have to take their word on it. Again, we don’t have any information to compare.
Britt Lindsey
Since three different epoxies are having the same failure, I would rule out an epoxy issue.
That leaves you with three possible issues: not enough epoxy used per shaft, poor shaft tip prep, poor hosel prep.
Shaft and hosel should be cleaned of all previous residue using solvents and brushes, then they should be cleaned of all dust. I use isopropol alcohol, but denatured alcohol works as well. If there is a lot of play when shaft is in the hosel, use shafting beads or a shim if putting a .355 shaft into a .370 hosel. A collard ferrule can also help center a shaft if the hosel accepts them.
Does this happen with all the heads or just one or two ? If one or two, are they the same heads each time ?
The only time it has happened to me was a club hosel that was way to smooth and shiny inside. I roughed it up a bit with a stainless steel brush and it never came loose again.
3M Scotch-Weld structural adhesive / epoxy DP 420 NS allows 20 minute work life, is non-sag, high peel, high sheer strength. 3M says their DP 420 NS epoxy is used by golf club manufacturers.
Mixing applicator for DP420NS: 3M EPX Scotch Weld Style Epoxy Gun 62-9170-9930-1 50ML 5 DUO PAK mixing nozzles – cut and paste to eBay.
Golf Works offers a Maltby book specific to club building and repair, and i’m no expert – check these references and judge for yourself.
Good luck with your project.