Question

528 viewsAugust 15, 2023

Auswimkc 14 August 14, 2023 0 Comments

In a different question there was a comment by Britt that one should not adjust the loft of clubs from the jump. I have built a tester 7iron of the Ke4Max, TS3, and the STi2. All with ScoreLT trimmed to Stiff. Of the three I love the look of the TS3, but the KE4max seem to work much better. They also look 1000x better in person than in photos. I should also mention I had the KE4max 7i bent to 32deg to match the TS3.

My problem/question is this. I’m a 13hcp and I would say iron play is a strength. I could probably be mid single digits if I could putt better and keep it in play off the tee. Distance is also not a problem as I currently game some 20+ year old Adams GT3 which has a PW at 46deg and I believe a 7i at 34deg. I hit that about 175/180y. This weekend I hit the KE4max 32deg 7i pretty solid a few times at 185/190y. I like the TS3 because of the consistent 4deg gaps which seems to make sense for a guy like me that would seem to want iron yardages more closely together at the top of the bag instead of more spread apart. But I just hit the KE4max that much better and straighter it seems. My current set is PW(46) and CBX2 (50) CBX2(56) and those go 135/115/100, and I’d like to tighten up those gaps. Just looking for some guidance as I was planning to order a set of KE4max with everything bent 2deg weak except for the GW and the PW (1deg weak) to get 4deg between clubs. That comment is throwing those thoughts off a bit. I understand that bending lofts weak also reduces the bounce. Currently play in typical Southeast Bermuda fairways and can be steep into the ball and take a solid divot. My miss is also out at the toe. Thank you in advance for any and all advice.

Auswimkc Unselected an answer August 15, 2023

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Answer 1 · 2023-08-15T09:33:12+00:00

Don’t remember saying that about not adjusting lofts right away, but I could have. I always would prefer someone hit them as they are before deciding to adjust. We design irons to produce certain ball flights and distances with the specs we build into them. Does not mean you can’t and that they can’t perform well once adjusted for any individual. Of course they can.

One correction that is important in your decision. When you weaken lofts you increase the sole angle, or bounce. So if you’re weakening by 2 degrees, the bounce will increase by 2 degrees. The Max iron has 3 to 5 degrees of bounce progression in the set. Going to 5-7 degrees should be OK, especially since you say you can get kind of steep. The Max is also the best iron you could play to enhance performance on toe hits, so that’s a plus as well.

I don’t think you can go wrong with either the TS3 or the Max. Both are very stable forgiving clubs. By weakening the lofts on the MAX, the distances should match closely to the TS3’s assuming the same club length, shaft, etc.

Britt Lindsey

Thank you, Britt for the response. I think your previous answer was along the lines of “play them first, then adjust. We designed them a certain way.” Which makes total sense. I can assemble a club, etc I just can’t bend them myself, I’d have to take them elsewhere to be bent. But if I buy a pak, Golfworks will bend them, so I was trying/thinking of trying to figure it out on the front end

Which brings up another question. Does Golfworks only bend a pak for free if they fully assemble them, or will they bend them for free and ship with raw length and assembled shaft etc?

Thank you again
If we build it we do not charge for the bending or prepping of shafts, etc. If we just send the parts, we do charge for the bending and the prepping of shafts.

Britt Lindsey