Question

1.20K viewsJune 23, 2023

JimHarrington 151 June 22, 2023 0 Comments

Can anyone comment on the approximate breakdown temperature of the various Golfworks epoxies? I am reading that some epoxies are hard to break without using a torch.

For irons a high temperature bond is probably fine, maybe desirable. For graphites ideally it would be well below the epoxy holding the shaft together, but well above the temperature in a hot car. This allows reuse of the shaft when the grooves wear out.

Perhaps the choice of epoxy depends on the application, not just the time one has before use.

Rlafoone Answered question June 23, 2023

1 Answer

You are viewing 1 out of 1 answers, click here to view all answers.

Answer 1 · 2023-06-23T09:56:30+00:00

Rlafoone 1.57K Posted June 23, 2023 3 Comments

quick thread i found says break down temp for golfworks epoxy is about 250*, the epoxy in graphite shafts is 350*

I prefer to use a heat gun. Often times i use a butane torch. Seldom need to use a propane torch unless someone decided to use JB Weld. I also use a golfworks shaft puller (GW1009) or one I built per Dave Tutelman’s website.

JimHarrington Posted new comment June 24, 2023

JimHarrington commented June 23, 2023

Wish I could find that reference, but what you say seems consistent with (most) of my experience. Always used 1:1, normally 18-24 hour cure stuff — either Golfsmith or Golfworks — and never had a problem swapping graphite shafts. Have yet to break one in play that I had pulled, though I have broken others, especially lightweight steel.

Years ago before graphite I used a propane torch that would cause bluing, then went to an electric heat gun with a concentrator and temperature control as graphite became more prevalent. I know that butane is the preferred torch now, but you’ve got to skillfully spread the flame to avoid hot spots.

Unfortunately, recently something went wrong with a set and I don’t think they can be pulled without the possibility of weakening the graphite bond.

I just want to make sure that I’m not setting myself up for the same problem in the future.

Britt Lindsey commented June 23, 2023

225 to 250 F degrees is consistent with what we have stated in the past for our epoxies. We have not tested to determine the exact number on all the mixes because this range has worked on all of our current epoxies. Using a heat gun for graphite shafts, with a proper shaft puller and proper technique is the best way to prevent an damage the shaft. If we do not know the epoxy used, we will generally heat for 30 seconds with a heat gun before we apply pressure from the puller. Then heat again for 30 seconds and stop, try again, etc. If it is one of our epoxies, generally we will heat for 45 seconds before applying pressure. If we know it’s one of our fast set epoxies, we would stop at 30 seconds, try, then another 30, etc. On non-fast setting, we would start with the 45 seconds, then try. If more heat is needed (for our non-fast setting epoxies), you can go as much as 3 minutes on high with the nozzel 3″ away from the hosel. Rarely will you need that much time, but we have done that safely. One of the advantages of using one of our pullers, specifically the FASTE or the Enhanced Graphite Shaft Puller is that force is applies as you are heating, so the second the bond is broken, you will know it.

The methods above have worked for us for a long time. Of course there can be some variation in the time it takes for any particular build, but these guidelines should lead to a successful pull a high percentage of the time.

Britt Lindsey

JimHarrington commented June 24, 2023

Thanks Britt.

I have a good extractor with an adapter for different shaft diameters, but it is not spring-loaded. What you wrote is consistent with my technique and most of my experience.