Question

1.30K viewsJune 30, 2023

Bill 146 June 30, 2023 0 Comments

I have to replace a shaft on a bore thru Titleist driver head. The shaft has been replace once, and the customer wants his original shaft replaced. It’s appears that the older shaft was installed all the way to the bottom of the head, then epoxy was poured into the bottom to form a plug. I do have questions.

1. my understanding is that a bore thru plug is placed into the bottom of the club. The shaft does not go all the way to the bottom of the head. Correct or not?
2. The application of heat. Heat will be applied carefully to the hosel of the head. That will loosen the epoxy in this area, but if the shaft has been extended to the bottom of the head, and epoxy has been poured in, I’m not sure if there’s enough heat to break that bond.
It’s an interesting problem and I need to approach it carefully. Included is a picture of the bottom of the shaft, and the shaft to be installed. Suggestions are most welcome.
Thanks – Bill

Rlafoone Answered question June 30, 2023

2 Answers

Answer 1 · 2023-06-30T19:18:33+00:00

Rlafoone 1.57K Posted June 30, 2023 1 Comment

See this link. Pretty much what I do in a nutshell. Move the heat. I didn’t the first time and the paint caught on fire.

Bill Posted new comment July 1, 2023

Bill commented July 1, 2023

Thanks. I watched this as well. Unfortunately no plug was used. I think I’ll use a bit of heat, and dremel out some of the epoxy slowly. After the shaft change I’ll use a proper plug at the end of the shaft.
It’s a lot of work to chase a rattle. I think the rattle is between the bottom of the club and the hosel.

Answer 2 · 2023-06-30T19:13:23+00:00

These can take a little longer and need a little more eat to remove, at least in our experience. If you are not trying to save the shaft, one method we would do is to drill out the epoxy plug and then heat a heating rod and apply inside the shaft up into the hosel area from the heel. This would heat the epoxy from the inside and would be less likely to do any damage to the finish. If you are trying to save the shaft, slow heating with a heat gun and a proper shaft puller is what we would do. Heat for short time, starting with 60 seconds staying 3 inches from the hosel moving the heat gun as you apply the heat. After 60 seconds if it does not come off, heat again in 30 second intervals. After a few intervals if it still is not coming off, increase the time back to 60 second intervals, stopping for 30 seconds in between. It could take up to 3 minutes total time, or a little more. We do this start and stop to simply try to keep from burning up the finish. Remember to keep the gun moving and stay 3 inches away from the head.

Britt Lindsey

Thanks Riafoone and Britt. Certainly I’m concerned about the paint. I’ve learned that the bore thru shaft length is to the bottom of the club. I’ll be using a heat gun for sure, and cycling it on and off, and also a proper shaft puller.